Imagine a place where bathing isn’t just a routine, but a sacred ritual believed to bring happiness. That’s the promise of Hirayama Ryokan, a hidden gem on Iki Island, Japan, where the waters are said to be touched by the divine. But here’s where it gets intriguing: screenwriter Kundō Koyama argues that yudō, the ‘way of the bath,’ deserves recognition alongside sadō (the way of tea) and kadō (the way of flowers) as a cornerstone of Japanese culture. He’s not just talking theory—he’s living it, immersing himself in baths across Japan, from rustic onsen to urban sentō, and documenting his journeys in Pen magazine’s ‘Bath Chronicle.’
Iki Island itself is no ordinary place. Shaped by the winds, it’s said to be the birthplace of haru ichiban, the first warm southern breeze of spring, named by local fishermen. Dig deeper, and you’ll find the island tied to ancient legends of divine winds and gods. With nearly a thousand shrines dotting its landscape, Iki feels less like an island and more like a living sanctuary. And this is the part most people miss: its waters are believed to carry that spiritual essence, making them more than just a bath—they’re an experience.
Reaching this divine bath is easier than you’d think. Just an hour by high-speed ferry from Hakata Port, Hirayama Ryokan’s hot spring has a history dating back 1,800 years. Legend claims Empress Jingū bathed her son, Emperor Ōjin, in these very waters. Controversial thought: Could this ancient practice hold secrets to modern well-being that science hasn’t fully explored yet?
My own experience began in the Tsuki-no-Ma room’s open-air tub. Before stepping in, I bowed to the water deity enshrined beyond the torii gate—a gesture of respect in a place where the line between nature and the divine blurs. The water, rich in minerals (15 times the therapeutic threshold), enveloped me as the wind whispered through the trees. It wasn’t just a bath; it felt like a communion with something greater.
‘Guests who stay here always find good fortune,’ shared Makiko Hirayama, the ryokan’s third-generation proprietress, her smile as warm as the waters. And she wasn’t wrong. My luck began with a meal that was nothing short of extraordinary—fresh sea urchin, Iki beef (a rare wagyū variety), and a glass of barley shōchū, the island’s signature spirit. By the time I soaked in the bath again, I couldn’t help but wonder: Is this happiness man-made, or is it truly the work of the gods?
Hirayama Ryokan
Address: 77 Tateishinishi-fure, Katsumoto-machi, Iki City, Nagasaki Prefecture
Phone: +81 920 430 016
Rates: ¥800 for day-use bath, ¥33,000 and up per guest for one night with meals
Website: iki.co.jp
Located a 20-minute drive from Ashibe or Gonoura ports, the ryokan was established in 1955 by the Hirayama family, who’ve long cared for this revered medicinal spring. Makiko Hirayama continues this legacy, sourcing nearly 90% of the meal ingredients from Iki, including pesticide-free vegetables grown by the family. Even food scraps are composted or fed to livestock, creating a sustainable cycle that honors the island’s spirit.
Thought-provoking question for you: In a world obsessed with wellness trends, could the ancient practice of yudō offer a deeper, more meaningful path to happiness? Share your thoughts below—I’d love to hear if you’d trade your modern spa for a sacred bath like this.
